Trevelin and Esquel – Part 4: “La Trochita” – The real little engine that could!
7 October 2006
(La Trochita Photos)

It is endearingly known as “La Trochita” by the Argentineans, but thanks to the travel writer Paul Theroux, some of you will know it as “The Old Patagonian Express”. “The Old Patagonian Express” recounts Theroux’s train journey that started on a Boston subway train with the rush hour crowds and ended at Esquel’s dusty, desolate railway station. This odyssey was undertaken in the mid-late 1970’s when North and South American railways were very much on the decline. Today, sadly, many of these services have long since disappeared, and, at a guess, you would be lucky to complete a third of this trip by train.

The very final leg of Theroux’s trip was from Ingeniero Jacobacci, a deserted junction on the east-west main line linking Viedma on Argentina’s Atlantic coast to Bariloche in the Andes (a passenger service still operates on this line, check http://www.trenpatagonico-sa.com.ar/index.htm). Ingeniero Jacobacci is the beginning of a 402km narrow gauge branch line to Esquel in the south. With a journey time of about 14 hours, the services that worked this line would not be classified as express.

A good historical description of the line can be found here (http://www.latrochita.org.ar/TrochiIngles/historia.htm). But, I will give you a ‘brief’ summary. In the first decade 20th century the Argentine government was keen to develop and exploit the resources of the Andean valleys of Patagonia. The only way envisioned of uniting these distant territories and bring their riches to market was by rail. A number of foreign engineers came to Argentina to survey the area, and proposed various schemes and routes. However, World War I, which severely affected the national economy, halted such plans. Though, ironically, the rail transport technology employed on the battle fields of Europe, known as the Decauville railways, provided the inspiration and, ultimately material for what became this infamous 402km branch line. And so with renewed vigour, a route was found, the 0.75m gauge was chosen (for reasons of economy) and rolling stock was ordered. This ambitious project began in 1921-22. The first train pulled into in Esquel in mid 1945 to much fanfare.

The name “La Trochita” is the diminutive form of the Spanish word “trocha” meaning gauge (ie. the distance between the rails of a railway line). The Argentineans often speak in diminutives, for example: “cafecito” – small coffee/espresso, “cucharita” – small spoon/tea spoon etc. Today, perhaps to ensure that there is no confusion, both the name “La Trochita” and the Spanish translation of the title of Theroux’s book are used.

To make a long story sort, road improvements led to a decline in railway traffic during the 1970’s and 80’s. Then in 1992 a decision was made that the line was to be closed. This came at a time when the government of Carlos Menem was selling off everything it could of the state’s assets. The privatisation binge extended to the national railways and was the death nail for most railway services. But, La Trochita would not go without a fight. Seeing the tourism potential of the little railway, the Provinces of Rio Negro and Chubut, through which the line runs, managed to save it.

Today, thanks to a dedicated crew of craftsmen and technicians, La Trochita is thriving. The line’s main workshops are located in the very small town of El Maiten, the halfway point of the line. To keep the trains running, parts are either cannibalised from the 900 or so original pieces of rolling stock or are made by hand.

Needless to say, I had been looking forward to this particular excursion for a very long time. I should mention that before arriving to Esquel, I was unable to get accurate information as to the trains’ status. Is it running? What is the timetable? How far does it go? Everyone told me something different, and frustratingly, the timetable on their http://www.latrochita.org.ar/) was out of date (and still is at the time of writing). Given the way things work here, I should have been used to this by now. But, finally I was here, ticket in hand, standing by the small, tin engine shed, watching as engine 105 took on water.


It could not have been a more perfect day for slow ramble through the windswept Andean foothills. I had arrived well in advance of our 1400hrs departure. This was time enough to take far too many photographs and observe the preparations for our 1 hour 10 minute trip to Nahuel Pan (all of 19km from Esquel). I will let you work out the average speed! I had wanted to do the nine hour trip all the way to El Maiten. Sadly, this service only runs during the peak season. April through October is considered the low season. In spite of this, every seat in our little six car train (four passenger cars, dining car and a guards van – caboose) had been sold. I was fortunate enough to have been allocated a single seat in first class – the only way to travel (shown below – click here to see what second class is like!).

Pulling out of Esquel I would have imagined that the novelty of La Trochita would have long since worn off for the local populous. But, almost everyone we passed, young and old, stopped, smiled and waved. When we crossed Ruta 40 (the main north-south road), people got out of their cars, many clinging to infants and toddlers, to watch this curiosity. And all of us, young and old, bouncing on our well sprung first class seats, would wave back enthusiastically.

Once we were well away from Esquel and the highway (all two lanes of it), it felt as if we were truly in the “middle no where”. No signs of humanity to be seen. And yet here we all were passing through this classic Patagonian scenery in this creaky wooden contraption. I tried to relish every moment, every sensation, all too aware that it would not last long. This was something quite special, and glancing around at the expressions of my fellow passengers, I sensed many were feeling the same. This was not just another tourist attraction; at least it did not feel like one. There was no fanfare or hype. It all seemed too simple for that. There was no gloss, glamour or gift shop. But, there was no need for any. Everything had been lovingly preserved and there is little that feels fake or contrived.

Nahuel Pan is not much more than a series of log cabins. However, it is home to one of the few remaining Mapuche communities in Argentina. We had about 20 minutes to explore before heading back to back to Esquel. I spent most of that time at the tiny museum that told the story of this particular community and of Mapuche history. I know I have overused adjectives like windswept, remote, desolate, dry and dusty. But, this is what Argentinean Patagonia is like. The wind never stops blowing with a “hold on to your hat” strength. It was quite incredible. Still not quite used to it, I asked one of the inhabitants if the wind always blew this hard. The reply started with a giggle. “Yes, always.”

We arrived back in Esquel at about 1700hrs and I was sad to get of off this little train. I wished that we could have gone just a bit further. As everyone went their separate ways, mostly on to tour buses, I lingered around. Now the local kids got their chance for a ride on La Trochita, even if was for only for a few meters as it made its final manoeuvres for the day. I watched as the engine went to work breaking up the six car set. There were two sheds, and neither was long enough to fit the entire train. So there was some good, old fashioned “shunting” required in order to complete this task. The kids then went back to their game of football as engine 105 made its way back to the shed where I had first gazed upon it.