Trevelin and Esquel – Part 3: The Welsh in Argentina
(Trevelin Photos / Gaiman Photos)

It was a slow start with all my aches and pains from my adventures on the Patagonian ski slopes. After all the physical activity I have done on this trip, I was surprised how sore I was. It probably comes down to using muscles that have not been exercised for a long time. On my walk to the bathroom, still not fully awake and not wearing my glasses, I stubbed my little toe on this foot high section of tree trunk. I had been cursing it for always being in the way since I had had arrived. I suppose this was its revenge. With everything else, I spent the next few days limping around.

That morning over breakfast I was chatting with Bibi, my hostess, learned that she had some Welsh ancestors. She had actually studied the Welsh language here in Argentina and spent a few months in Wales taking an advanced course. My Welsh goes as far as saying “lechyd da” which means something like “cheers.” Bibi is fluent, though I am not sure how she practises as the language seems to be barely surviving in Argentina (despite what my guide book says about hearing Welsh in streets). Though, perhaps Bibi is a living example of a younger generation that is keen to preserve its heritage. (NB. Many of you will know that the Welsh language is alive and well in Wales.)

“Wait a moment…but…how…what is this about Welsh in Argentina?” you might be asking. The British government during the 19th century was not at all keen on the idea of the Welsh using their own language and had an inferior legal status compared with English. Hence, in 1865 the ship Mimosa arrived in small gulf on Patagonia’s Atlantic coast with 153 Welsh men, women and children aboard. Their aim was to establish a Welsh colony as far away as possible from English control. After considering various locations in various parts of the globe they chose Patagonia, specifically for its isolation. The Argentineans welcomed the Welsh contingent by giving them 100 square miles of land along the Rio Chubut. On the shores of this gulf they created their first settlement, which they named Puerto Madryn.

This seemed like an idea situation until they realised that this new world of theirs was not like the lush green valleys of their homeland as it had been enthusiastically sold to them. The area was suitably remote and desolate, but was also a semi-desert with little drinking water or food. After suffering through drought and famine, they knew that they would not survive if they stayed on the coast. They made their way inland and founded their first permanent colony, Gaiman, on the banks of the Rio Chubut in 1874. Some continued on, going further west, eventually reaching the Andes. And this is where a small group of the colonists, led by John Evans, established Trevelin in 1889. The grave of John Evans’ horse, Malacara, is one of Trevelin’s principal attractions. It is said that Malacara saved his master from an ambush.

The early years were extremely rough for the settlers, but the Welsh were responsible for the initial settlement of the Province of Chubut, founding towns like Puerto Madryn, Rawson (provincial capital), Trelew, Gaiman and Trevelin. The Welsh had good relations with the local Tehuelche tribes, who had helped the settlers through some of their initial food shortages. It was about this period that the Argentinean government was systematically eradicating the indigenous peoples of Patagonia. It was also thanks to the Welsh designed irrigation systems that enabled the settlement of this region.

Today Gaiman is very much on the Patagonian tourist trail, mainly due to its close proximity to Puerto Madryn. Though, Trevelin is not far behind despite being 600km due west. Many century old, solid, red brick houses, chapels and mills remain. And I always found it amusing when I came across intersections of streets with names like San Martin and John Murray Thomas. Both towns have their share of tea houses serving the traditional “Té Gales” (Welsh Tea), consisting of a sampling of cakes, pies and scones as well as all the tea you can drink. Dinner is not necessary after this sweet feast!