Continuing South
25-27 September 2006
(Puerto Varas and More Andes Photos)

After a day of rest after my big climb I caught a bus to Puerto Montt. I guess you could call Puerto Montt the gateway to Chilean Patagonia. Population wise, there is virtually nothing south of it until you reach Punta Arenas in Tierra del Fuego, over 1300km away. To continue my journey south I had two options: 1) Take one of the four night cruises which sail from Puerto Montt to Puerto Natales, about 200km north of Punta Arenas, or 2) cross back into Argentina. Also, immediately south of Puerto Montt is the 'mysterious' (according to my guide book) Island of Chiloé, which I was interested in checking out.

(NOTE: There are train services between Temuco and Puerto Montt, two a day in each direction. This could be an interesting option if you are staying in Temuco. They work out to be a little cheaper than the bus, but take longer. When there are direct buses from Pucón to Puerto Montt, going back to Temuco to catch the train does not make sense. However, I believe that from early 2007 train services from Santiago to Puerto Montt will recommence once they have finished bridge maintenance work south of Chillán. Check www.efe.cl for more information.)

I had heard from other travelers that the cruises pass some stunning scenery, but four nights (in dormitory style accommodation) on a boat did not grab me, the landlubber that I am. There were plenty of places I was keen to see Argentinian Patagonia.

I arrived to a cold, wet and inhospitable feeling Puerto Montt. I headed to the tourist information office, usually my first stop in any new place, to get what information I could on Chiloé. The rain seemed to wash away my enthusiasm for this diversion. Being the off season, transport options were limited. Churning it over in my head over a cup of tea (more like hot milk with a tea bag), I came to the decision. I would make a u-turn and head to the lake side town of Puerto Varas, 20km north of Puerto Montt, and from there cross the Andes back to Argentina. I am sure Puerto Montt is a pleasant place, but in this light it depressed me.

Puerto Varas was also cold and wet, not surprisingly, but felt more welcoming. It looked all the better when I found a very warm and comfortable hostel, the "Compas del Sur". Puerto Varas is a small town of 16,000, located on the southeastern corner of Lago Llanquihue, one of the largest of the lakes in the Chilean Lake District. I had passed by only hours early on the bus to Puerto Montt and got a brief but spectacular glimpse of the lake with Volcanoes Calbuco and Osorno on the far side. Hence my decision to return. Sadly, the cloud and rain had settled in by the time I came back, completing shrouding both volcanoes. I would never catch this glorious vista during my short stay.

On my second showery day in Puerto Varas I explored the town, which did not take long, and bought my bus ticket to Bariloche, Argentina for the next day. One rather inconvenient travel issue I have across in Chile is that very city and town seems to have number of bus terminals. Often each company will have its own terminal. Sometime they are next to each other, but often they are not - something to be aware of when traveling through Chile.

Sorry, I am going to drift off topic here for a moment, but I just remembered an other observation I made while being in Chile. I have seen more people with crutches and walking sticks here then in any other country I have been. And I am I not talking about people of '3rd Age.' Many seemed to have physical disabilities that prevented them walking unaided. It is as if there was some disabling childhood epidemic in the 1950's and 60's that affected a large percentage of Chileans.

Anyway, where was I...? Ah yes, leaving Chile....

As Murphy's Law dictates, the moment I pulled out from Puerto Varas, the clouds parted and the sun shone warmly. Bugger. Oh well, it did mean I had another spectacular Andes crossing, via paso "Cardenal Antonio Samore", which the Chilean city of Osorno to Bariloche in Argentina. This pass is not nearly as high as the one I took from Mendoza to Santiago, but the road really twists and turns. As we passed jagged peaks rising steeply on either side, crystal clear streams and snow covered forests I was thinking to myself how in complete awe I am of what I have seen of the Andes. I have not spent much time in the French or Swiss Alps and I have never been to the Himalayas or the Rocky Mountains. But this range it truly magnificent. Hopefully I will have the chance to see more.

(I know, I need to make these posts more digestible!)