Pucón and the Chilean Lake District
21 and 22 September 2006
(Pucón Photos)

Two nights in Cencepcíon was probably enough. However, it gave me time to figure out where to go next. I knew that the Chilean Lake District was an area not to be missed. But, where to go, where would be a good base? I had met plenty of travelers in Santiago and Valparaiso who had either come from or were heading to a place called Pucón.

If you imagine the very long, very narrow strip of land that is Chile, the Lake District roughly half to two thirds the way down, between the small city of Temuco to Puerto Montt. It is the scenery is frequently compared to that of southern Germany and Switzerland. With its countless lakes and snow capped mountains, the comparison is clear. During the 19th and 20th centuries a significant number of Germans immigrated to Chile, and for obvious reasons settled in this area. As a result many schools, businesses and hotels have the word "Aleman" (German) in their names. You also see the German inflence in street names and surnames.

Going from Concepción to Pucón required a change in Temuco. However, buses were very frequent so the trip was easy. Pucón is a resort village on the south eastern end of Lago Villarrica. The larger town of Villarrica sits on the western end of the lake. Villarrica may have been the cheaper option, but the town itself did not appear as picturesque as Pucón.

As soon as I alighted in Pucón I was "shanghai'd" by a man offering accomodation in his hostel. This is a frequent occurence that can be both an annoyance and useful. In some backpacker hotspots you have to litterally run the gauntlet of hostel touts. However, Claudio seemed afable enough and his hostel was litterally next door to the small bus terminal. "Worth a look," I thought to myself. "Hostel Backpackers" (what an original name) was more like a large family house, with wood panelling throughout and a welcoming fire. It had two small dorms: one with a single bunk bed and another with 2 bunks and a single bed. It felt very comfortable, cosy, central and only CL$5000 a night (US$10 without breakfast). Claudio also could organise various activities including climbing "Volcán Villarrica" the nearby active volcano. That would be quite a feat, but I could never do that, I thought.

Pucón is small with one main street lined with souvineer shops, butiques, restarants and tour agencies. Most buildings have that log and stone architecture typical of a "western" ski resort that you would find in Colorado, the Alps or New Zealand. It certainly did not feel like South America!

I arrived Thursday afternoon in the rain. The next day it also rained. However, Claudio informed me enthusiastically, Satuday was looking good for climbing Villarrica. "That's great," I said, "but it's not for me." I have never climbed anything like that in my life, and anyway, I am in less than good physical shape. "You can do it," he encouraged.

Villarrica, 2850m high, is said to be one of the most active volcanos in South America. From downtown Pucón you can make out whisps of smoke eminating from its creator. Apparently it has an active lava lake, which can be seen from the edge of its creator. If you zoom in on the satellite image on Google Maps, you can make out the lava lake, a orange spot in its creator.

As the day wore on, the idea of climbing an active volcano started growing on me. If I could do it it would be a huge personal achievement. That afternoon I found Claudio hanging around the bus terminal and said that I will do it. The cost for the climb was little expensive, CL$35,000 (US$65), but included all the necessary gear. He only takes up small groups, and in our case there were to be five of us for the climb along with our two guides. We were advised that if the weather turns bad, that we might have to abandon the climb and not get our money refunded.

That evening we got our gear together:
- rucksack
- snow pants
- fleece gloves and waterproof outer mittens
- a waterproof balaclava like thing
- ice axe
- crampons
- helmet
- gaitors
- decent waterproof hiking boots (Salomon's - worked really well for a pair of rented boots)
- sun glasses (I am going to have to buy my own pair one of these days)
- sandwiches, Quaker bars and 2L of water

"This is all pretty serious", I thought, "I guess I am ready." That night I slept a little restlessly and was up just before 6am. Departure was 7am.