On the way to Villa de Leyva - Zipaquira and the Catedral de Sal
(Villa de Leyva Photos)

Although I have enjoyed the trips to San Agustín and el Eje Cafetero, they were a little rushed. Our recent trip to Boyacá, the department northeast of Bogotá was rather different. For a start it did not involve taking a bus! (You could say that I have begun to tire a little of bus travel.) So when a friend who knowns the terrain, has a car and can put you up in their country house, you know you are in for a good time. And so this is how it went when Eujenia drove us up to well preserved colonial town of Villa de Leyva and showed us the sights. It was one of the most pleasant and relaxing excursions I have taken in a long while.

Leaving Bogotá, we first headed to Zipaquira, 30km to the north, to visit one of Colombia's most spectacular man made wonders - La Catedral de Sal. Essentially it is an underground salt mine that has been transformed into a cathedral. It is a stop that has to be made.



The entrance is like that of a typical underground mine, consisting of a portal in the side of a hill and a gentle descent through a metal ribbed tunnel. This is an environment that, you could say, I am used to. Visitors are taken down in groups led by a guide (English, French and German guides are available). Once down the ramp and into the mine you are led through a long and very dimly lit passage off of which are 14 chambers, each representing the 14 Stations of the Cross. After a series of ramps, steps and narrow passageways the main chamber of the cathedral, 180m below the surface, opens up before you. Once is struck, almost breathless, by the awe inspiring sight. "Wow!" It is easy to forget that this has all been carved out of salt rock. I was amused on several occasions when I saw people in our group lick their finger and rub it on the gray walls and then taste it, just to make sure.


The main chamber, which must be 30m high by 20m wide and at least 100m long is lined with rows of pews. Mases are conducted regularly as well as the odd wedding. Flanking this immense cavernous space are two slightly smaller halls. There is also a theatre space available for hire. From what I understood there is a vehicle entry ramp for use on special occasions or emergencies. The mine is totally naturally ventilated (i.e. there are no large fans pushing air through).

We took our time meandering through the rich, hilly countryside. We stopped for lunch at a place that was clearly a truckers favorite, evident by the collection of trucks lining the highway (a sign of good, abundant and cheap food). The next stop was the famous cheese stop. Ligia and Eujenia came away with large blocks of yellow cheese that must have weighed a couple kilos each. This is dairy country, with its lush, thick and green pastures. Farmers doing their milking in the fields. I lost count of the number of people I past carting stainless steel milk vats, balanced on the back of bicycles, on mules or by hand. There was definitely something quite idyllic about this scene.

Then we made another obligatory stop in the small town of Raquira, known for its large earthenware pots and all the kitschy souvenirs you could possibly want. We passed through Villa de Leyva at 7pm, picking up some provisions on the way to the house.